#0022: Equipment recommendation list for a hobbyist repair technician

Preamble

This is a quick and dirty list of the equipment (tools, and consumables) I use, specifically with regards to repairing devices. Hopefully, this list proves useful to any other hobbyist repair technicians or people interested in electronics in general. The equipment list is split into three categories based on need: Necessities, Nice-to-haves, and Useless dreck. Each item has a quick summary explaining it’s use relative to it’s category. Other than the broad categories, the items are in no particular order.

Quick list

Necessities:

• Temperature controlled soldering iron
• Leaded solder
• Lead-free solder
• Tweezers
• Bench power supply
• A good vacuum desoldering pump
• Desoldering braid
• Pry tools
• Isopropyl alcohol
• Rosin flux
• Multi-bit screwdriver set / screwdriver set
• A cheap multimeter
• PPE: safety glasses
• PPE: gloves
• Spares and parts
• LCR component tester
• Side cutter
• Digital camera
• Portable computer
• Helping hands
• Hot air SMD rework station
• Kapton tape
• Shrink wrap
• Lighter
• Pen and pad
• Small containers
• Work mat
• Mobile light source
• Cleaning supplies

Nice-to-haves:

• Soldering iron tip tinner
• A good wire stripper
• Solder mask and UV curing torch
• Oscilloscope
• Hot glue gun
• Soldering gun
• PCB board holder
• Precision screwdriver set
• Desktop fan
• Filter mask
• Temperature sensor module
• Isolation transformer

Useless dreck:

• Cheap vacuum desoldering pump
• Cheap wire stripper
• Flux pens
• Alcohol based liquid flux
• Heated vacuum desoldering pump
• Soldering iron sponge

Necessities

Temperature controlled soldering iron

A variable temperature setting is needed to work effectively with materials with different melting points and thermal mass conductivity.

Leaded solder

More versatile and friendly to work with than the lead-free variant due to it’s lower melting point and better flow. Necessary to perform maintenance on a soldering iron tips (tip tinning).

Lead free solder

If you have leaded solder, then lead free solder is largely redundant if all you primarily care about is solder effectiveness. Lead-free solder does however have it’s use cases. The main trade off between them is that leaded solder is more effective as a solder, however lead-free doesn’t contain lead, which is toxic. Any use case where you definitely do not want lead in the device, lead-free would be the way to go. A good example of this, is any device that comes in contact with foodstuffs such as kitchen appliances.

Tweezers

Tweezers are needed to manipulate tiny components, such as surface mounted components. They are also useful for holding materials affected by heat. Get a firm pair of metal tweezers, the cheap ones bend when you exert force on them, meaning that you lose control on the object you are gripping. It also means that you cannot grip the object tightly, otherwise the tweezer will start to bend. I recommend having multiple tweezers, an L-bend pair of tweezers for comfortably interfacing with SMD components, and a larger (stronger) pair of straight tweezers (with teeth/grips) for general use.

Bench power supply

Necessary for powering a range of devices and components under test. It needs to have variable voltage outputs and a current limiter. It also needs to be able to provide enough power for powering the devices under test.

A good vacuum desoldering pump

Although generally less effective at removing solder from a joint than a length of flux infused desoldering braid would be, it is still very useful due to it’s reusability. It helps me keep my recurring materials cost down.

Desoldering braid

This is probably the best way to actually remove solder from a solder joint. Works best when infused with additional rosin flux.

Pry tools

A small collection of pry tools will assist in opening the various plastic clips that you will encounter when opening consumer devices.

Isopropyl alcohol

An excellent cleaning agent and light solvent. Useful for effectively removing many materials, from adhesive, to rosin flux, and even good for removing water (moisture) from devices.

Rosin flux

Necessary agent for assisting solder to flow effectively. Additional flux is necessary in many cases where the flux that comes within flux core solder is insufficient, or in cases of desoldering a joint without first applying additional (flux core) solder to the joint.

Multi-bit screwdriver set / screwdriver set

A good set of screwdrivers (including security bits) is basically mandatory for a repair tech of any stripe. They facilitate the access and disassembly of devices, necessary for repair.

Cheap multimeter

A multimeter is an absolute necessity. At the most basic level, a multimeter is used to test suspect components to gage their health and functionality. They have many functions that a very useful, such as continuity, voltage, current, and resistance testing. However they also have some gimmicky functions (at lest in the cheaper models), such as NCV testing, or transistor testing (which is not very good on multimeters in general).

Generally cheaper multimeters are fine for low voltage applications, such working on battery operated consumer devices. Their core functions are accurate enough that it shouldn’t become an issue. However if you are wanting to work on higher voltage devices. Such as mains powered devices, than a more expensive notable name brand multimeter (e.g. Fluke) is necessary at that point due to it’s safety feature set.

PPE: Safety glasses

You will use some form of safety glasses sooner or later. The only question is whether it happens before or after something either sharp or hot flies straight into your eyeballs.

PPE: Gloves

Very useful for handling hot materials, and/or isolating your skin form various toxic, corrosive, or abrasive materials. This could include anything from lead metal, to battery acid, to liquid plastic. Get gloves appropriate to the materials you’ll be handling.

Spares and parts

How can you call yourself a repair tech, if you don’t have at least some spare parts or devices either laying around; or stuffed into boxes somewhere. Either bought or salvaged, it really doesn’t matter. What matters is that there are many discrete parts in devices that are virtually irreparable. Basically this includes every small component from passives, such as: resistors, diodes, and capacitors; to active componentry such as integrated circuits and transistors. They’ll all need replacing once they’ve fried.

LCR component tester

This is a good addition to a multimeter. It’s typically used to test various components’ inductance (L), capacitance (C), or resistance (R). I however predominantly use mine to gauge the health of electrolytic capacitors, by testing their equivalent series resistance. I personally bought mine when I got into recapping old monitors. However, you can also us an LCR meter to identify various unlabelled components, such as SMD (surface mounted device) capacitors, resistors, and transistors.

Side cutter

A nice little sharp side cutter is invaluable when it comes to performing various tidying up jobs around a PCB circuit. These little clippers are great for trimming the leads of through hole components, and cutting smaller gage wires that are nestled deep in a device. It also functions as a good as wire stripper, however user’s will have to carefully strip the insulation from cables.

Digital camera

I use a digital camera to document my exploration through a device. That way I have evidence of how it looked before I started messing with it’s insides. An example use case would be documenting which random coloured wires were soldered where. By the time the user finds and fixes a fault within a device, details such as the specific configuration of wires connecting to any given board may slip their mind. So it helps in such circumstance to have documented evidence.

Computer

I typically use my small old (intel atom) laptop computer. I use it to host tutorials (both video and textual), datasheets, schematics, and for use as a typewriter to jot down notes if I don’t want to use a pen and pad for whatever reason. One could also load on the thing various entertainment media for getting through long sessions of laborious work. Basically music and audio books. Additionally, I also use it to store catalogues of the photographs I take when assessing devices.

When it comes to work bench computers, I have a general preference for computers that are inexpensive and that use very little power to operate. Inexpensive, because they are likely to get damaged in one way or another. Either by off-spray, a slip with a blade, a drop, melt damage, anything really. And low power, because the computer is also most likely going to be powered on for extended periods of time, most likely just displaying documents whilst playing music in the background. Essentially, not really doing much in terms of processing computations. So an older small portable with a lower power processor is ideal for this use case.

On the other hand a desktop for example is likely unsuitable for this task, both due to it’s power consumption, and due to the desk space that it will require. Additionally, there is also the temptation with a more powerful rig, to ‘take a short break’ by playing video games, or rabbit holing youtube videos. Such distractions are painful experiences on an intel atom processor, hence its likely to keep a person on task easier.

Helping hands

Helping hands hold workpieces in place securely, enabling the user to work on them confidently. They may initially seem like a ‘nice-to-have’. However I find that for many things, such as soldering wires together, or connecting various cables to plugs; helping hands that can hold all these small fiddly components are exceptionally helpful.

Hot air SMD rework station

An SMD rework station is just a fancy name for hot air station. It has a nozzle that outputs air hot enough to melt solder. If you are working with miniscule surface mounted devices or components, then an SMD rework station is something that you really aught to have. Especially when it comes to installing or removing larger surface mounted devices such as IC (integrated circuit) chips.

Kapton tape

A great companion to a hot air station is the Kapton tape. This is a heat resistant adhesive tape. It is useful in that it allows an operator to localise any heat from the hot air station, by applying the insulative kapton tape to the surrounding componentry. Kapton tape is especially useful in preventing many tiny components from accidentally falling off a PCB when the user applies heat to a large neighbouring component. This happens a lot when dealing with any larger logic ICs, because they tend to be surrounded with many tiny surface mounted ceramic capacitors. Which are needed to provide them with apt power.

Shrink wrap

A great step up from using electrical tape to insulate connections in wires is by using shrink wrap. Shrink wrap is more water resistant and offers a more permanent and professional looking insulation to connections.

Lighter

A lighter is a great cheap alternative to a hot air station or heat gun, when you want to shrink heat shrink.

Pen and pad

Good for taking on the fly notes and sketching schematics, diagrams, or what have you. I think that nothing beats the convenience of using a pen and pad to jot down whatever pops into mind.

Small containers

A couple of small containers on the desk are an absolute must for working continuously in an organised manner. I have several knocking about; including a long metal tray for holding screws, a small pot for holding small garbage like solder from a vacuum pump or wire and tape trimmings, and a glass ashtray for holding various components. It’s good to have several little containers like this with dedicated uses.

Work mat

A good mat is necessary to protect your work table from any damage. I personally use a small cutting mat for everything, including soldering. Although a silicon heat map would be more appropriate for that, but a cutting mat has more general applications. Mats are especially useful for tables with multiple uses, such as writing or drawing. Tables that are better left unscratched and flat.

Mobile light source

Mobile light sources include devices like: torches or desk lamps. These are necessary for seeing small details, such as silkscreen on an IC chip, and especially useful for photography which often requires higher levels of light for the camera to capture details properly.

Cleaning supplies

Every repair will need a good clean at some point. This is a bit of a catch all category for the general cleaning stuff that I use. I keep a fair range of stuff close to hand. Firstly, I have a couple of dirty rags or shop towels, these are for either really dirty devices, or devices that are contaminated with something that means I’ll have to chuck the rag after use. Secondly I have some clean microfibre cloths for wiping down display screens and the like. These are for light dusting and polishing jobs essentially. Thirdly, I have a paintbrush which I use for cleaning dust out of difficult areas on devices, such as from between the fins of a heatsink or from a populated PCB board in general. Essentially for removing the bulk of dust from uneven and crowded surfaces.

I also carry cleaning solutions. In addition to the solvents like isopropyl alcohol, I also carry two spray bottles. One is filled with tap water and the other is filled with a 10:1 tap-water and washing up liquid mix. The dilute washing up liquid, I use as a catch all cleaning agent. Its good as a basic emulsifier, allowing me to remove oils from a device. It is also generally good for removing random sticky stains and substances from a device without damaging it. For example as an initial wet wipe down of a filthy monitor screen. The clean water bottle is used to aid the removal of any sticky residue that may linger after the application of the washing up solution. I keep cleaning with just water until the device chassis (or screen, or whatever) has no residue of any cleaning agent left on it.

Additionally I also use cue tips or earbuds. These are very effective at cleaning in very localised areas. I mostly couple these with some isopropyl alcohol; by soaking the earbud’s head in alcohol it can very effectively remove both caked on dry thermal paste or wet paste from CPUs without leaving any residue or contaminants.

Nice-to-haves

Soldering iron tip tinner

This is a specialised tool that just cleans soldering iron tips. It’s more convenient to use than tinning a soldering iron manually using leaded solder. But the results are basically the same.

A good wire stripper

A good wire stripper is a tool that will quickly and reliably strip insulation from wire. Its a tool of convenience, enabling a user to strip wire in a fraction of the time that it would take to do so with a side cutter or knife.

Solder mask and UV curing torch

If you work a lot with PCBs. For example repairing water damaged PCBs that have violently short-circuited to the point that they incurred burnt out sections. After scraping out all potential conductors such as the burnt out materials. A solder mask paste, is useful for sealing and insulating the damaged sections afterwards. It is what I consider a permanent and professional repair. The accompanying UV torch, assists the solder mask in drying quickly. A hacky alternative to filling blown holes in PCBs with solder mask, would be to use hot glue.

Oscilloscope

Oscilloscopes are useful if you get into analysing and repairing devices that deal with a lot of logic or sound signals. Things like computers and audio amplifiers. Where you’ll need to measure the signal outputs of various ICs in order to track down where the fault lies.

Hot glue gun

This is the hacks best friend. I use it a lot in in prototypes and as a way to make “temporary” repairs to various devices. Its great for filling in gaps in repaired plugs, and chassis, and even for setting electronics into a box.

Soldering gun

A powerful (~200 Watt) soldering gun is useful in any instance where you need a significant jump from the everyday soldering iron. It has the thermal mass and watt output to effectively solder to large heatsinks, such as a metal chassis. Soldering guns are also useful for effectively melting/welding plastics when coupled with a wide tip and low temperature setting.

PCB board holder

Useful for securing a workpiece. It is as useful as the helping hands, but more specialised due to it’s design being specialised for holding PCB boards only.

Precision screwdriver set

If you already have a screwdriver kit or the multi-bits kit you may either encounter screws that are too small for your screwdriver set, or screws that are deeply recessed into a device. The thin channel of the screws recession may be too deep and/or too thin for the larger screwdrivers.

Desktop fan

Its just a fan. It blows the fumes away from your face as you work, and helps cool workpieces down quicker. It’s nice to have when you want it, but in most cases it is unnecessary.

Filter mask

Necessary if you work with any really toxic fumes. I am not talking about rosin flux fumes when I say toxic. I’m referring to using a filter mask when melting/welding plastics.

Temperature sensor module

A largely single use tool that is good for calibrating a temperature controlled soldering iron (which has the function of temperature calibration).

Forceps

This is good for reaching deep into larger devices and clipping to and pulling specific objects around.

Isolation transformer

If you intend to work on any mains powered devices, then an isolation transformer is a must for safety concerns. Its another line in defence between you and death by electricity.

Useless dreck

Cheap vacuum desoldering pump

They don’t generally have the suction necessary to be worth using.

Cheap wire stripper

They tend to cut deeper than the insulation and cut strands within the wire. They are not better than a set of clippers or even a knife. There is no reason to use this type of wire stripper above more general tools.

Flux pens

They tend to contain diluted low quality rosin flux that lost the majority of it’s effectiveness of helping solder flow, in return for being in a true liquid form. Which allows it to wick in the pen. If you want a low quality flux in pen form. This is for you. It may useful for applications of SMD soldering. However it doesn’t make a notable difference over soldering with just flux core solder.

Alcohol based liquid flux

The flux is less effective due to being diluted in alcohol. Its effectiveness is reduced to the point that it doesn’t have a notable difference over using a flux core solder alone. The flux itself however is much easier to apply because it is a liquid. Rather than the pure rosin flux which is an amber like solid, or flux paste. This type of flux tends to be marketed as a no mess or no residue flux, that claim is true. However it is not a very effective flux.

Heated vacuum desoldering pump

The one I have, had a fragile tip that cracked due to the heat and use. It is also a thermoregulated unit; that has no way for the operator to control the actual temperature output. It outputs heat that can easily damage a work piece if held on it too long, at the same time it may not melt the solder in a timely manner. The actual vacuum pump mechanism however is serviceable.

Soldering iron sponge

I generally do not like soldering iron sponges due to the fact that they require watering first, and when you actually use it to clean solder off of the soldering iron, the cold moisture of the sponge causes a sudden thermal loss in the iron. Meaning that the user will have to wait for the iron to reheat after each cleaning. I just find that the iron wool tip cleaners are just superior as they do not require prep to clean the soldering iron, nor do they cause thermal loss in the iron, and finally they even clean the tip better than the sponge does. Tip cleaners can scrape oxidation from the iron’s tip, which the wet sponge can not.

Closing thoughts

I should mention that the categories of tools are based on my particular use cases, skill set, and preferences. Yours may and likely will vary. I have categorised the tools according to my general needs; putting the core list of tools that I use with most projects in ‘necessities’, the specialised tools that I seldom use but enjoy having in ‘nice to haves’; and finally the tools that I either did not enjoy using or had other tools (including general use tools) that did their jobs better, into the ‘useless dreck’.

Just because I categorised the various tools as such does not mean necessary that others would do the same. A lot of it is based on taste and personal priorities as well. The various rosin flux products come to mind as a good example of this. The ones in the ‘useless dreck’ categories are not without merit, it’s just that I did not care for them.

I hope this crude little list is of some value (if not then at least entertaining) to you.

Thank you for reading.